Why safari in Zimbabwe? It’s got the best-trained guides
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/
TIM JOHNSON
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe — Special to The Globe and Mail
Published Saturday, Apr. 06 2013, 6:00 AM EDT
Hunkered down in the hot African midday sun – crouching low behind a spindly
little bush – I felt rather exposed. Earlier that day, I had embarked upon
this walking safari with great enthusiasm, embracing the opportunity to
encounter at least one of the Big Five animals in its own natural
environment, away from the impediments (and safety) that come with the
customary, open-backed safari Jeep. After a short walk down a narrow path,
my guide, Calvet Nkomo – armed with a large rifle – spotted a six-ton
elephant about 100 metres away. He expertly led me downwind of the animal;
if he smelled us, Nkomo said, all bets were off, and big bulls like him
could easily charge.
We took up a position and, soon enough, as Nkomo had accurately predicted,
the elephant came to us, lumbering through the foliage and settling in just
few metres away – upwind. Nkomo repeatedly signalled with one hand that I
should crouch even lower. “He cannot see us,” Nkomo assured me in an
almost-silent whisper. But then, all of sudden, we had a problem. The
elephant began making a low, guttural noise – an invitation, Nkomo said, to
a fellow bull somewhere behind us to come and join him. We were caught
between the two animals, running the very real risk of being trampled.
I was in Zimbabwe, a country that has, in recent history, made more
headlines for economic hardship and societal unrest than for thrilling
safari experiences. The past decade has not been kind to Zimbabweans: Under
Robert Mugabe, the country’s leader since its independence in 1980, the
economy more or less collapsed. The currency spun out of control. Violence
and human-rights abuses made headlines. But, since the nadir of “the chaos”
around 2008, the country has experienced a steady recovery. Mugabe agreed to
a power-sharing arrangement with opposition leaders, and the adoption of the
U.S. dollar helped stabilize the economy. Last month, the country approved a
new constitution (although the vote was not without incident) that includes
a strengthened bill of rights and presidential term limits, leading the
European Union to lift most of its sanctions. Tourism is coming back, too,
making Zimbabwe – a country that until recently was all but off limits – one
of Africa’s next great destinations.
The day before my walking safari, I travelled to Somalisa, a luxury tented
camp deep in the heart of Hwange National Park, with Nic Polenakis,
part-owner of the camp and an experienced wildlife guide. Hwange is more
than 14,000 square kilometres, roughly half the size of Belgium, and we
bumped along for hours through the savannah in his weathered Jeep. We passed
scores of animals, from timid impalas to playful baboons, majestic giraffes,
quirky little warthogs and more zebra than I could count.
Polenakis said that it wasn’t always so. “At the height of the chaos, it was
a nightmare. There was no money in the country at all.” Both humans and
animals suffered. For the former, inflation spiralled to levels that would
have been comical, if they weren’t so tragic: Banknotes were printed in
denominations of up to $100-trillion.
The animals in Hwange faced a twofold crisis. The lack of hard currency
meant that wildlife camps and lodges, many of which closed during this
period, could no longer afford to maintain watering holes fed by pumps that
required costly fuel to operate. As well, desperate locals resorted to
poaching for meat. It would have been far worse, Polenakis said, were it not
for the vigilance of the park rangers (some of whom went months without
being paid): They patrolled the extensive Hwange perimeter for weeks at a
time, fed and aided by the remaining lodges along the way.
With the end of the crisis, previously shuttered camps are reopening their
doors, new ones are springing up and – a sure sign of good things –
international airlines such as Emirates and KLM have resumed service to the
capital, Harare. The country’s wildlife guides, who are required to undergo
a rigorous four-year certification process, are recognized as some of the
best in the world, and going on a walking safari is a true Zimbabwean
experience. Despite the inherent risks of approaching wild animals on foot,
guides keep guests safe, and it has been years since anyone was injured
inside Hwange. Even on game drives, the guides here got me much closer to
wildlife than those in the many other safari destinations I’ve visited. On
one outing, I could hear the purrs and miniature roars of a lioness and her
cubs as they nursed and played.
Which, obviously, was far less terrifying than being trapped between the two
elephants.
“When he looks away, crawl on your hands and knees over there,” Nkomo
croaked into my ear, pointing to a nearby bush. I quickly complied. Soon we
had crawled far enough to walk in a low, silent stoop. A few minutes later,
we were back upright and Nkomo, feeling at ease again, hoisted the gun back
onto his shoulder. We arrived back at our Jeep, climbing into the back to
enjoy a couple cold ones. Within half an hour, the bull we had furtively
viewed sauntered through the bushes and walked across the dirt road in front
of us, turning to take us in as he headed to a watering hole.
“He has not seen us,” said Nkomo, twisting his lips into a slightly
mischievous smile. “He thinks he is seeing us for the first time.”
IF YOU GO
What to see
Victoria Falls One of the world’s largest waterfalls (its white curtain of
water is larger than any other), Victoria Falls is amongst the mightiest and
most breathtaking sights on Earth. It is split between Zambia and Zimbabwe;
the latter arguably has the better views. If you’re visiting during the
rainy season (November to May), bring or rent a raincoat – a walk along the
Zimbabwean side brings a good, thorough soaking.
Hwange National Park This giant wildlife preserve is home to more than 100
different mammals and 400-plus types of birds. The animals that roam its
vast, subtropical plains include cheetah, wild dog, hyena, giraffe and
zebra, plus all of the Big Five – white rhino, Cape buffalo, leopard, lion
and the world’s largest concentration of elephants (more than 30,000). Many
lodges, with varying levels of luxury and amenities, are located around and
even inside the park.
The Great Zimbabwe Located in the country’s southeast, this UNESCO World
Heritage Site is one of Africa’s greatest historical and architectural
treasures (and the place from which the modern country takes its name). The
site preserves the legendary city of the Queen of Sheba, and was built by
the Shona civilization between 1100 and 1450 AD. It is divided into three
sections (the Hill Ruins, the Valley Ruins and the Main Enclosure) that
spreads over almost 800 hectares.
Mana Pools National Park Set on the Zambezi River, this reserve offers both
aquatic adventures and wildlife viewing. On “canoeing safaris,” you can
paddle past elephants, hippos, buffalo and crocs. The park’s pools are one
of the few sources of water during Zimbabwe’s dry season (June to October),
meaning that an array of wildlife can be viewed here during these months.
Matobo Hills National Park Inhabited since the Stone Age, the park is
renowned for its rock paintings, which date back as far as 13,000 years, and
beautiful hills of granite. Matobo is also home to a wildlife reserve and
serves as the final resting place of Cecil John Rhodes.
Expert Africa This U.K.-based tour operator offers tailor-made itineraries,
including transfers, lodging and other arrangements. expertafrica.com;
1-800-242-2434
Where to Stay
Somalisa Camp This luxury tented camp is surrounded by Hwange National Park
and features just 12 beds. Tented rooms include full-size beds, wardrobes,
ensuite bathrooms and some electricity. On the edge of the camp, a watering
hole draws elephants each day, affording amazing opportunities for up-close
viewing. Rooms start at $330 (U.S.) in low season and include meals and
daily game drives. africanbushcamps.com
Camp Amalinda Nestled into the granite of Matobo Hills National Park, rooms
in this unusual hotel are built into the rock. While the overall effect is
definitely “cave,” accommodations are comfortable and include beds with
mosquito nets, ensuite bathrooms and even small patios equipped with outdoor
furniture. There’s also a pool, spa, and opportunities for game drives and
guided hikes. Rooms start at $280 (U.S.) per person in low season and
include drinks and full board. campamalinda.com
Illala Lodge Located just steps from Victoria Falls, this boutique hotel is
also within easy walking distance of the shops in town. Rooms are
comfortable and include WiFi and satellite television. Excursions can be
booked through the hotel’s activities office; the Ra-Ikane, a sunset cruise
up the Zambezi River, is definitely recommended. Rooms start at $160 (U.S.)
per person, including breakfast. ilalalodge.com
SAFETY TIPS: The government of Canada has no nationwide advisory in place
for Zimbabwe, but advises travellers to “exercise a high degree of caution
due to the unpredictable security situation.” The next election is expected
to take place in July, which could lead to violence in some parts. In
general, the country is safe to visit. Street crime is common, however, and
avoid travelling alone. Use a trustworthy tourist operator to arrange
airport transfers, and stay at good hotels and camps. For more information,
visit travel.gc.ca/destinations/zimbabwe.
Tim Johnson spends most days on the road. He visited Zimbabwe courtesy of
Expert Africa. The company did not approve or review this article.