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Death in Cecil park: Are walking safaris safe?

Death in Cecil park: Are walking safaris safe?

After a lion kills Zimbabwe guide Quinn Swales in the game reserve once home to Cecil the lion, we ask if walking safaris are safe

Death in Cecil park: Are walking safaris safe?

Many experts think that because lions feel more threatened, they have become more aggressive Photo: Alamy

 

While the death of the Zimbabwean guide Quinn Swales is extremely sad – he was a 40-year-old enthusiastic game guide who gave up working as a pilot to, as he put it to a friend recently, “Live the dream” – no one should be surprised. Lions are the kings of the bush: the ferocious, 6ft-long carnivorous beast with teeth that can break bone, paws that can knock over a man and claws that can rip open tough hide and can bring down giraffe, buffalo – and in some instances elephant.

As the killing of Cecil the lion in the same Hwange area of Zimbabwe showed, they are under threat more than ever before: from hunters, from poachers, and from villagers whose cattle are constantly predated and whose fellow villagers are constantly killed.

Cecil was a popular attraction among visitors to the Hwange National ParkCecil was a popular attraction among visitors to the Hwange National Park  Photo: AFPCecil was a popular attraction among visitors to the Hwange National Park (AFP) Cecil, the lion that was killed on an illegal hunt

The numbers of African villagers killed by wildlife are hard to come by – most governments in Africa don’t set aside national resources to keep records of this type, and most safari operators don’t want the figures put about, for fear of putting off tourists.

What we do know is that lions – like rhino – are severely threatened. The total population of about 34,000 has dropped by 50 per cent in three decades; in West Africa the species has been almost completely wiped out.

 

What does that mean for those going on safari? Possibly, many experts agree, that because the creatures may feel more threatened by man, they may have become more aggressive. (The death last year of a woman in a South African game park who was pulled out of her car through the car window certainly attests to the fact that being in a car doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll be safe either.)

But these incidents are “extremely rare”, says Chris McIntyre, MD of Expert Africa, who sends about 2,000 clients on safari to Africa a year. “We have been operating for 20 years, and touch wood, have never had anyone killed or seriously injured on a walking safari.”

  Photo: Alamy

The expected level of training of guides varies across Africa

But, because walking in the African bush among dangerous game has obvious risks, he admits that, “we only work with camps whom we know operate in the safest way possible: with the best guides and properly armed.”

Because there are no laws across Africa about what levels of security are needed, standards are extremely variable, he adds. “In Zimbabwe, the standards are among the best in Africa. The professional guides there are properly trained – and have had to shoot wild animals, in dangerous conditions, as part of their training.” Whereas in Botswana there is no formal guide training – so he would recommend only specific camps whose staff he knows.

Other considerations worth bearing in mind is the competence of a national parks ranger or scout, who might by national law have to accompany a walk, and the standard of the weapon he will have.

Some rangers in Tanzanian parks, for instance, may only have had minimal training in wildlife management or rifle use. Others might not be armed with a hunting rifle but an AK47, which might kill a man, but not a large charging creature. “Basically, if you’re heading out into Africa with wild creatures, you want to go out with someone who is an expert in the bush, and armed with something that would protect you,” he says.

Quinn Swales was following the lion with a group of tourists on a walking safari of Hwange National Park on Monday when the lion pounced on him Quinn Swales

Quinn Swales was a well-trained, experienced guide

Even if you are in good hands – with a trained guide such as Quinn Swales – it’s also important to know that the camp’s staff are trained for emergencies. Twenty five years ago, on a safari, one of our party was attacked by a hippo in a canoe – and horrifically injured.

Our (young, relatively inexperienced) guide had forgotten both his radio and his first-aid kit – and our friend was lucky to survive the five-hour trip to hospital. By comparison, when Swales was injured by the lion, help from the camp was with him in 20 minutes, and an air ambulance in a further one hour 20 minutes. Although it was too late – he at least had a better chance than someone in a camp without good policies and procedures in place.

For the thousands of us who do walking safaris every year, we know the risks. We are walking in wild territory, surrounded by wild animals who are unpredictable and could attack at any time. Every time I go back to Africa, I hear yet another story of another accident – and no doubt dozens go unreported.

But as McIntyre says, there is no better way of seeing the African bush than going on a walking safari.

“It’s by far the best way to get a feel of the smells and sounds as well as the sights – and to feel more of a participant than a spectator.”

Most good guides, too, are trained to protect their guests – and to make sure they are safe. Quinn Swales did precisely that. Sadly, though, he paid the ultimate price.

 

 
 

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